unbrazing stops, bosses and other braze ons.

[Keiron]

Hi.

I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
I go for the silver/brass directly?

Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?

Thanks

[Leo Lichtman]

"Keiron" wrote: (clip) Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
> I go for the silver/brass directly? (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Best done with an oxy-acetylene torch and a small tip. I would concentrate
the heat on the braze-on, letting the spill-over touch the tubing only
slightly. Keep moving from side to side, so the heating is as even as
possible. Screw something into the braze-on that you can pull/push while
heating, so you can get it off at the earliest possible moment, with the
least heating to the tubing. The whole process should take, maybe, 10-15
seconds.

[Chalo]

Keiron wrote:
>
> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
> prefer not to saw and file).

Cutting them off is way nicer to your frame, destroying much less
paint and not adding heat affected areas. After you melt the silver
and remove them, you're still going to have to file the mounting
points smooth.

> Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
> I go for the silver/brass directly?

Concentrate on the fitting itself while gently pulling on it with an
expendable pliers, tweezers, or spoke. When the surface of the filler
flows, the fitting will pop off. Use as small and pointy a flame as
you can.

> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> service (UK based).

No. But consider powdercoating as it is much more durable and less
polluting than wet paint.

Chalo

[Andre Jute]

On Apr 13, 9:21 pm, Keiron <***@NOSPAMsheffield.ac.uk> wrote:

> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> service (UK based).

The famous Bob Jackson works offers to paint frame and forks in enamel
for STG75 and has a STG35 both-ways delivery service. Lug lining,
panels, second colours, decals, etc, are extra. Here's the price
list:
http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/resprays_pl.php

>I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?

If you just want your bike shot in a single colour, your local panel
beaters can handle that competently. If you aren't too particular
about which colour you want and are thus willing to take one of
whatever they're shooting on cars that day, the price could be
surprisingly low as they're saving the time-consuming setup and
cleanup phases. Worth trying, at least.

Andre Jute
Check out Andre's coachlining at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/Andre%20Jute's%20Utopia%20Kranich.pdf

[Sergio Moretti]

On Apr 13, 4:58 pm, Andre Jute <***@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Apr 13, 9:21 pm, Keiron <***@NOSPAMsheffield.ac.uk> wrote:
>
> > Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> > service (UK based).
>
> The famous Bob Jackson works offers to paint frame and forks in enamel
> for STG75 and has a STG35 both-ways delivery service. Lug lining,
> panels, second colours, decals, etc, are extra. Here's the price
> list:
>  http://www.bobjacksoncycles.co.uk/resprays_pl.php
>
> >I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
> > and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
> > look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?
>
> If you just want your bike shot in a single colour, your local panel
> beaters can handle that competently. If you aren't too particular
> about which colour you want and are thus willing to take one of
> whatever they're shooting on cars that day, the price could be
> surprisingly low as they're saving the time-consuming setup and
> cleanup phases. Worth trying, at least.

I don't think it's worth trying. Use someone with experience painting
bike frames (e.g. Bob Jackson). It's not as easy as one might think!

Sergio Moretti

> Andre Jute
>  Check out Andre's coachlining at
>  http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/Andre%20Jute's%20Utopia%20Kranich...

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

"Keiron" <***@NOSPAMsheffield.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:39NEl.44937$***@newsfe01.ams2...
> Hi.
>
> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid
> of
> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat?
> (I'd
> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or
> do
> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>
> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do
> frame
> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and
> a
> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?
>
> Thanks

Depending upon the location, removing them by using heat could be
dangerous to the frame. As long as they're located on a butted section
of tube, you're probably fine, but the fact that downtubes sometimes
tear right where the fittings are brazed is an indication that it might
not be something you want to add even more heat to.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA

[AMuzi]

Keiron wrote:
> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>
> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?

With a file, you can make a quick neat job of it and lose
almost no paint. A spot of touchup and you're good to go.

A torch will melt the bronze at ~1500F but the paint, which
burns at about 400F, will be missing from an ~80mm area.
Paint repair then becomes a larger project.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[res09c5t]

Do you file the entire stop away or can you get it loose somehow and then
just file off the silver/brass?
Thanks!

"AMuzi" <***@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
news:gs0ign$6li$***@news.motzarella.org...
> Keiron wrote:
>> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
>> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
>> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
>> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>>
>> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
>> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
>> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
>> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?
>
> With a file, you can make a quick neat job of it and lose almost no paint.
> A spot of touchup and you're good to go.
>
> A torch will melt the bronze at ~1500F but the paint, which burns at about
> 400F, will be missing from an ~80mm area. Paint repair then becomes a
> larger project.
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[j***@stanfordalumni.org]

someone wrote:

>>> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get
>>> rid of the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them
>>> using heat? (I'd prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the
>>> actual braze on itself or do I go for the silver/brass directly?

>>> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike
>>> painting service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol
>>> used to do frame and forks for ??60(?) or similar but that was a
>>> few years back now and a look at their website looks like almost
>>> double that now. Any sources?

>> With a file, you can make a quick neat job of it and lose almost no
>> paint. A spot of touch-up and you're good to go.

>> A torch will melt the bronze at ~1500F but the paint, which burns
>> at about 400F, will be missing from an ~80mm area. Paint repair
>> then becomes a larger project.

> Do you file the entire stop away or can you get it loose somehow and
> then just file off the silver/brass?

Hack saw off the larger part and file away what's left.

Jobst Brandt

[AMuzi]

>> Keiron wrote:
>>> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
>>> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
>>> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
>>> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>>> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
>>> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
>>> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
>>> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?

> "AMuzi" <***@yellowjersey.org> wrote
>> With a file, you can make a quick neat job of it and lose almost no paint.
>> A spot of touchup and you're good to go.
>> A torch will melt the bronze at ~1500F but the paint, which burns at about
>> 400F, will be missing from an ~80mm area. Paint repair then becomes a
>> larger project.

res09c5t wrote:
> Do you file the entire stop away or can you get it loose
> somehow and then just file off the silver/brass?

I prefer a Nicholson 8" half round bastard which makes this
a two minute process. Once you get to the filler material,
switch to a finer smaller flat file.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[datakoll]

removing a brazeon is highly skilled work. Don't flub it. Use
intelligence coupled to the hands.
and brain...

http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publications/recipes/tools/how_to_hacksaw.pdfhttp://www.woodworkingseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/shopnotes-88-metalworking-tips-and-techniques.pdfhttp://www.google.com/search?q=using+a+hacksaw+to+cut+steel&rls=com.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLJ_en

[Leo Lichtman]

Way back at the beginning of this thread I described how I would do it with
an acetylene torch. I accept that removing a braze-on with a saw and/or
Dremel and a file might work better for most people. For anyone still
interested in the torch technique, I will add the following: punch a hole
in a piece of sheet metal and slip it over the braze-on. This will not only
protect the paint pretty well, it will reduce the heating of the tube
adjacent to the braze-on.

[AMuzi]

Leo Lichtman wrote:
> Way back at the beginning of this thread I described how I would do it with
> an acetylene torch. I accept that removing a braze-on with a saw and/or
> Dremel and a file might work better for most people. For anyone still
> interested in the torch technique, I will add the following: punch a hole
> in a piece of sheet metal and slip it over the braze-on. This will not only
> protect the paint pretty well, it will reduce the heating of the tube
> adjacent to the braze-on.

No reason you couldn't but I can file off and finish a
brazed stop in less time than it takes to remove the paint,
carry it to my braze table and light a torch. Not counting
cleanup after.
--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[_]

On Thu, 16 Apr 2009 17:37:58 -0700, Leo Lichtman wrote:

> Way back at the beginning of this thread I described how I would do it with
> an acetylene torch. I accept that removing a braze-on with a saw and/or
> Dremel and a file might work better for most people. For anyone still
> interested in the torch technique, I will add the following: punch a hole
> in a piece of sheet metal and slip it over the braze-on. This will not only
> protect the paint pretty well, it will reduce the heating of the tube
> adjacent to the braze-on.

Excellent.

Added to the mental-box-of-tricks.

Thanks.

[Still Just Me]

On Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:40:35 GMT, _
<***@hfDONTSENDMESPAMx.andara.com> wrote:

>Excellent.
>
>Added to the mental-box-of-tricks.
>
>Thanks.

Use the same technique with cardboard when spraying touch up paint.
Avoids and hard lines and keep touch up area as small as needed. Hold
cardboard a bit away from frame and make sure it's large enough to
catch all overspray.

[c***@snyder.on.ca]

On Tue, 14 Apr 2009 00:01:41 GMT, "res09c5t"
<***@verizon.net> wrote:

>Do you file the entire stop away or can you get it loose somehow and then
>just file off the silver/brass?
>Thanks!
>
>"AMuzi" <***@yellowjersey.org> wrote in message
>news:gs0ign$6li$***@news.motzarella.org...
>> Keiron wrote:
>>> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
>>> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
>>> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
>>> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>>>
>>> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
>>> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
>>> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
>>> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?
>>
>> With a file, you can make a quick neat job of it and lose almost no paint.
>> A spot of touchup and you're good to go.
>>
>> A torch will melt the bronze at ~1500F but the paint, which burns at about
>> 400F, will be missing from an ~80mm area. Paint repair then becomes a
>> larger project.
>> --
>> Andrew Muzi
>> <www.yellowjersey.org/>
>> Open every day since 1 April, 1971
>
cut the stop odd with Nippers or Dykes, then file what's left. Don't
be tempted to twist them off - the brass is at least as strong as the
bse tube and you can tear them out.

[datakoll]

On Apr 13, 9:24 pm, datakoll <***@yahoo.com> wrote:
> removing a brazeon is highly skilled work. Don't flub it. Use
> intelligence coupled to the hands.
> and brain...
>
> http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publications/recipes/tools/how_to_hac...

http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publications/recipes/tools/how_to_hacksaw.pdf

http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/shopnotes-88-metalworking-tips-and-techniques.pdf

http://www.google.com/search?q=using+a+hacksaw+to+cut+steel&rls=com.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLJ_en

unngh google crushed muh joke

[AMuzi]

> datakoll <***@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> removing a brazeon is highly skilled work. Don't flub it. Use
>> intelligence coupled to the hands.
>> and brain...
>> http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publications/recipes/tools/how_to_hac...

datakoll wrote:
> http://www.accuratebuilding.com/publications/recipes/tools/how_to_hacksaw.pdf
> http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/shopnotes-88-metalworking-tips-and-techniques.pdf
> http://www.google.com/search?q=using+a+hacksaw+to+cut+steel&rls=com.microsoft:*:IE-SearchBox&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7&rlz=1I7GGLJ_en
> unngh google crushed muh joke

Were you looking for something like this?
http://www.pequals.com/at/pvbarn/images/dc/cut.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
<www.yellowjersey.org/>
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

[Peter Cole]

Keiron wrote:
> Hi.
>
> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
> I go for the silver/brass directly?

This is a perfect job for a Dremel tool. A cutting disk will slice
through the stop in seconds, a stone tip will grind it smooth and flush
in a few more. Using a torch requires skill and the right equipment, and
in this case, no advantage.

[Bill]

"Peter Cole" <***@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:Aj%El.889$***@nwrddc01.gnilink.net...
> Keiron wrote:
>> Hi.
>>
>> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
>> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
>> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
>> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>
> This is a perfect job for a Dremel tool. A cutting disk will slice through
> the stop in seconds, a stone tip will grind it smooth and flush in a few
> more. Using a torch requires skill and the right equipment, and in this
> case, no advantage.

A second for my second favorite tool, Dremel, right after "bigger hammer"

[Michael Press]

In article <39NEl.44937$***@newsfe01.ams2>,
Keiron <***@NOSPAMsheffield.ac.uk> wrote:

> Hi.
>
> I'm being a bit OCD with my single speed project so I want to get rid of
> the cable stops. What's the technique for removing them using heat? (I'd
> prefer not to saw and file). Do I target the actual braze on itself or do
> I go for the silver/brass directly?
>
> Additionally, anyone know of a decent and inexpensive bike painting
> service (UK based). I remember Argos Cycles in Bristol used to do frame
> and forks for £60(?) or similar but that was a few years back now and a
> look at their website looks like almost double that now. Any sources?

Leave them on, enhancing the resale value.

--
Michael Press